Also, plan on this taking longer than you think - some bolts are extremly hard to get to or break loose - and the transmissions are heavy and hard to stab in.
You will need patience. Do not sacrifice safety for getting it done quickly. Although a sx only weighs lbs, it only takes 15 lbs of pressure applied correctly to break the human skull.
Put the car up on jackstands as high as you can get it you will need to slide the tranny out the bottom , make sure it is not going anywhere — it will be shaken a bit. Also we found it best to take off the front wheels to give you a little more room to work in. Drain your transmission fluid from the draining bolt.
Remove the finisher plate from your center console. Remove the console from the car — only a few bolts and it will lift off. Remove the shifter and all the stuff that comes with it.
You will now see the ground through your center console. Next, take out the driveshaft. On the differential side there will be 4 bolts that hold the driveshaft to the diff. Remove these bolts, you will want your parking brake on to keep the driveshaft from spinning.
To get to the upper bolts, take off your parking brake and your driveshaft will spin, then reapply the parking brake not too hard there guys. Let the back side of the driveshaft lay on the floor. Also remove the small d-shaft suport a thick wire X-member that keeps the driveshaft from whipping around if it breaks. Next, remove the bracket that holds the middle of the driveshaft up, and slide out your driveshaft.
Next, remove the dust plates from the transmission bellhousing, they are at the very front of the transmission. Disconnect these hardlines and pull them out. Get them out of your engine bay. Disconnect all the sensors you can from you transmission, and the back O2 sensor on your exhaust.
Two of the sensors can be cut. Now for one of the time consuming parts this took us most of a day. You will have to weave your hands in everywhere to find and remove the bellhousing bolts holding the transmission bellhousing onto your engine.
We used a ratcheting wrench on the top bolts, with a breaker bar and a jack running from underneath the car to the wrench ontop of the engine. For some of the other bolts we used a socket with swivels , and for still other bolts we used obstruction wrenches.
One of the top ones has a recirculation pipe bracket attached to it, the pipe runs down to the transmission — disconnect it and remove the bolt. Two of the bellhousing bolts run through the starter, disconnect the starter before you take out these bolts then remove the starter. We found that the best way to access the two top bellhousing bolts was thru the passenger side of the engine bay, behind the engine block - we found it necessary to move some lines and disconnect a heater hose.
Next, remove the bolts holding the tranny to the crossmember, then jack up the back of the tranny and remove off the crossmember. At the same time, get as many jacks as you can under the tranny — in a few steps it will come off. Also, there is an exhaust bracket on the tranny you must remove. Where you took the dust plates off of the bellhousing earlier, you should be able to look back into the transmission and see some bolts holding the torque converter onto the flywheel — undo these 4 bolts.
To get to the top ones, get a 27mm socket and turn the crank pully. Note: the flywheel gets hard to turn when the engine starts a compression stroke. After the torque converter is unbolted, the transmission will come loose if not, you can kick it from the front some — it will pop off and weighs about — lbs. Get some of your friends to help with this part. Slowly lower the transmission part way down and disconnect any of the wiring that you did not get before.
This next step is very frustrating. Brace your flywheel from moving as best you can. We actually wedged in a jack bar to keep the flywheel from spinning, and put 2 sockets and breaker bars on the flywheel one braced against the ground tightening to keep the flywheel from spinning, and another to break the flywheel bolts.
If you have a propane torch, heat these mofo-bolts up and that should help you break them loose some more. If you unlike us have an impact wrench this may come in handy. Basically you get a new bolt that will fit into a hole on the flywheel the hole not used to bolt to the crankshaft and use a bellhousing bolt. Run a chain between the two bolts as shown in the diagram below. Put the chain on and then turn the flywheel to add tension to the chain. The chain will now keep the flywheel from spinning.
This works great to hold the flywheel if you don't have an impact gun. To remove the bushing either chisel it out with an air chisel, or dremel which will take about 30 minutes to an hour or go rent a pilot bushing remover tool and slide hammer from autozone and use it which will take about 20 seconds. Three hours later with a dremel and lots of broken bits we got the darn bearing out. Procedure — Manual Install I did not include what needs to be lubed, so check your FSM for where to put on lithium grease - some parts of the transmission need it, and some like the clutch disc will not work if they get greasy.
If not, I believe the side of the clutch that the springs sit further out on goes towards the back of the car. Now put on the pressure plate. Keep the alignment tool in the clutch and slide the pressure plate over the clutch. Bolt down the pressure plate to the flywheel — there are some dowels on the flywheel that fit into the pressure plate. Now you can take the clutch alignment tool out. Take the throwout bearing off of your 5 speed transmission if it has one on there and replace it with a new one if you have it it will come in a clutch kit.
To change it you may need a wheel puller and a hammer to get it back together. Next, it is time to pre-wire your 5 speed transmission. You will want to wire in most of the sensors before you install the 5 speed into the car. The one sensor on top front of the transmission CAS?
This is the hardest step to do. This step took us a good 6 hours and multiple attempts. Some people say that the tranny must be rotated while jacking it up so the starter hump points down, the rotated into place once it is mated to the transmission, we did not do this and still got it into place. We finally got it to work by: Putting one jack in the middle of the 5 speed at its center of gravity on a flat spot and another jack at the very back of the transmission.
This allows you to wag the tranny side to side and up and down. Next loosen the engine mounts that hold the mount to the body — not the engine to the mount, with these loose, jack up the front of the engine so you have a better approach angle with the transmission. Remove the exhaust piping that runs from the header to the cat so you can have more room to slide the transmission in there, you may want to have a rubber mallet to hammer the back of the transmission in.
Easier said then done. We had to keep going up and down with the transmission. Also, once it is in if it is not perfect, it will not fit on all the way — you may want to try spinning the flywheel to help line everything up. Do not let the transmission shaft handle a whole lot of weight otherwise it will bend the shaft or break your clutch. We found the clutch part out the hard way. Our team is dedicated to more than just customer service, it's driven to provide customer success. Just like you we are car enthusiast looking to enjoy the process of the build, the satisfaction of the improvements and the success at the track.
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